Bánh Mì – Sandwich

Bánh Mì cart, Nha Trang, Vietnam

#1 combo thịt người- L'amour Des Baguettes Bakery, SJ

It’s nearly impossible to find a sandwich nowadays for under $5, so people are loving the Vietnamese Bánh Mì not only for its value but for also packing so much flavor in every bite. It seems that any type of food that can be eaten over rice or noodles can be stuffed into a bánh mì. But for me, the classic bánh mì is the thịt người with cold ham, giò thủ (gelatinous headcheese made from pig ears and other parts), and pâté, often item #1 at Vietnamese sandwich shops. The strong French influence in Vietnamese cuisine is prevalent in this simple sandwich from the French baguette, pâté, and cured meats. Other fillings that can be served warm or cold include xa xiu (Chinese bbq pork), thịt nướng (roast pork), chả lụa (steamed pork with a mild taste), nem nướng (salty pork meatballs), bì (shredded pork), chicken and some type of chay (vegetarian). And let me give you a tip about what Vietnamese consider bacon: Thịt ba rọi is a seasoned and roasted cut of fat that is delicious in a sandwich with or without other meats. Most sandwiches are served with pickled daikon and carrots, cilantro, jalapeno peppers, mayonnaise, and soy sauce (including cucumbers is up for discussion but no lettuce or tomatoes please). The meats can be extremely salty so the pickled vegetables balance out the flavors. That first bite of toasted baguette with soft and warm center, salty meat, and crunchy sweet and sour veggies is sandwich perfection.

In Vietnam, bánh mì carts are on every corner and I saw a woman on a scooter with a big basket of baguettes deliver to the bánh mì carts around 6 am. The carts have their own grilling compartment so the baguettes are always perfectly toasty. Most of the carts had different roasted meats, a mound of pate, pickled veggies, mayo (sometimes referred to as butter) or an oily mixture with soy sauce. Nothing’s refrigerated so if a fly hovers around the meat, oh well! In Nha Trang, the carts had portable burners so a fried egg (óp la) could be added. The egg brings the bánh mì to a whole new level. We also saw a few chay bánh mì carts. Women usually worked the carts and they quickly but delicately placed meats and pickled veggies in the bread using chopsticks. The finished bánh mì was wrapped in a small sheet of newspaper then tied with a rubber band, all for 10,000 VND (58 cents). The baguettes are a little skinnier and the filling is not overstuffed, so I was eating a couple bánh mì a day between and after meals.

$2.50 Bánh Mì Thịt Nướng- Huong Lan, SJ

#1 thịt người with egg- Dakao, SJ

Growing up in SJ, bánh mì were $1. Over the years, they’ve risen to $2.50-$3.50, but they’re still a great value and people seem to buy in bulk. Because they’re mass produced, sandwiches tend to be made sloppily… the bread isn’t toasted, meat’s skimpy, there’s too much pickled veggies, not enough pate, and I usually need to rearrange my sandwich to ensure every bite has a bit of everything. It wasn’t until I tasted them in Vietnam from the carts that I remembered how good they could and should be. In SJ, you’ll find Lee’s Sandwiches everywhere (can someone please tell me they remember the salmonella poisoning in the homemade mayo at the Lee’s on King years ago?) and Huong Lan has also made a name for itself with multiple locations. Smaller Vietnamese sandwich shops can be found at every Asian plaza in SJ. The popular filling for Americans seems to be thịt nướng (roast pork), a smokey, sweet and tender pork.

Baguette Express & Saigon Sandwich, SF

$8.50 roast pork from Out the Door, SF

San Franciscans love Saigon Sandwich (560 Larkin St) in the Tenderloin’s Little Saigon, but it’s not my favorite since it’s so heavy and overstuffed. There are also a few bánh mì shops in the Financial District that are ok and I’ve still got a bunch to explore in the Avenues. In SJ, it’s common for the baguettes to be baked in the bánh mì shop, but I haven’t seen this in SF yet except at Lee’s. And I have to mention the gourmet bánh mì I’ve seen lately on menus: Out the Door has an $8.50 roast pork, Pal’s Takeaway offers one occasionally, and BLT Burger in Las Vegas has a $12 version with Sriracha mayo. And if you’re following the SF street food craze, the BanhMiSF cart (actually old DPT car) debuted in early September with rotating fillings.

Recommendations:

Dakao (98 E San Salvador Street, SJ) – for the combo – toasted baguette, good amt of all components, you can add an egg! (other meats like roasted pork are just ok)
Huong Lan Sandwich (1655 Tully Rd, SJ) – all sandwiches are $2.50, baguettes are toasted, and thịt nướng is good
L’amour Des Baguettes Bakery (1181 Story Rd, SJ) – simple flavorful meats, skinny baguette- most like carts in Vietnam
Sing Sing (309 Hyde Street, SF) – simple sandwich with ba rọi and chả lụa, perfect amount of meat, pate, mayo, and veggies with a sprinkling of Maggi

*Mimi

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